1915
ACCVI Executive:
Chairman – William Foster
Vice-Chairman – Robert McCaw
Secretary-Treasurer – Jennie McCulloch
Executive Committee – Margaret Cowell, Sara Spencer
Events:
January 19 – Club talk by Arthur Wheeler on “The Caves of Cheops, Selkirk Mountains.”
February 23 – Club meeting at Alexandra Club with talk by Robert McCaw on “Some Trips Taken During a Summer Spree Along the Banff-Windermere Motor Road.”
April 10 – Club’s 9th annual banquet at the Brentwood Hotel.
December 14 – At the annual meeting William Foster was elected Hon. Chairman, Robert McCaw, Chairman; Jennie McCulloch, secretary; and the following were elected members of the committee: William Drewry, William Dougan, Gordon Cameron, Nancy McCulloch, Margaret Cowell and Alan Morkill.
Section members who attended the annual summer camp at Ptarmigan Lake July 21 to August 11: Arthur and Clara Wheeler
Alpine Club Meeting
Reported in the Daily Colonist Wednesday January 13, 1915, p.8.
The regular monthly meeting of the Vancouver Island section of the Alpine Club of Canada will be held on Tuesday, the 19th instant, at 8:30 p.m., in the King’s Daughter’s Hall (opposite the Alexandra Club), when the director, Mr. A. [Arthur] O. Wheeler, F.R.G.S., will give an illustrated lecture entitled “The Caves of Cheops, Selkirk Mountains, British Columbia.” The lecture will be open to the general public, as well as to members.
“Caves of Cheops”
Reported in the Daily Colonist Thursday January 21, 1915, p.6.
An excellent audience met in the rest room of the King’s Daughter’s to listen to an address by Mr. A. [Arthur] O. Wheeler, F.R.G.S., director of the Alpine Club of Canada. Mr. Wheeler illustrated his story by lantern slides. His lecture took his audience to the neighborhood of Glacier House, or, more particularly, to the “Caves of Cheops,” in the Selkirk Mountains. He described the accident of their discovery in 1904 and his exploration of them the following year with two companions. Mr. Wheeler’s description of the flora and fauna of the district was also exceedingly interesting.
Alpine Club Meeting
Reported in the Daily Colonist Tuesday February 23, 1915, p.9.
At the regular monthly meeting of the Alpine Club of Canada, to be held tonight in the Alexandra Club, an address will be given by Mr. R. [Robert] D. McCaw, D.L.S., entitled “Some Trips Taken During a Summer Spree Along the Banff-Windermere Motor Road.”
Address Alpinists
R.D. McCaw Reads Interesting Paper on Trip in Windermere District: Assent of Mount Ball
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Wednesday March 10, 1915. p.14.
At the last meeting of the Victoria branch of the Alpine Club of Canada, Arthur O. Wheeler, director, presided. Arrangements for the annual dinner in celebration of the founding of the club were discussed, and it was decided to hold this after Easter at the Brentwood Hotel. The feature of the evening was the excellent paper read by Robert D. McCaw on “A Few Side Trips Along The Banff-Windermere Motor Road.” The trip, the speaker explained, had been taken in the summer of 1913 during a photo-topographical survey he was taking for the B.C. department of public works. His summer’s work followed the course of the Vermillion River to its junction with the Upper Kootenay River, together with all valleys tributary to the first named stream. Among the more prominent alpine and scenic features referred to by Mr. McCaw was Mount Whymper, at the summit of which (9,321 feet above sea level) they established a photographic station and did some transit work. Mount Whymper was only introductory, however, to mount Ball, the ascent of which was attempted on June 25. The climb was commenced at 6 a.m., in the rain, which lasted most of the day. Among some of the interesting things seen were small rock rabbits and marmots, and a very fine ice cave was entered. The climb was continued until they reached the elevation of 10,200 feet, when the clouds settled so thickly that they decided to descend, without having reached the summit. Prospectors’ valley was well explored, also the district around Kaufmann Lake, Opabin Pass, Misko Pass and the ochre beds above the Ochre Creek. These were of historic interest, from the fact that centuries ago they are known to have been the rendezvous of Indians who trekked in from the prairies and other districts to get the decorative ochre for their war paint. The extensive remains of old tepee pole of the vicinity were some indications of the large number of Indians who visited the place. Ottertail Pass, Mount Sharp, Mount Helmet and the second (successful) attempt to ascend Mount Ball were described. At the summit of the last named they found a record of two ropes of climbers from the Alpine Club camp, Vermillion Pass (1912), which had been there the previous summer. The story of the ascent of Mount Ball was told in detail, and the closing chapters of the paper were devoted to the trail up the Simpson, through Ferro Pass, and the description of the view of Sunburst valley and Mount Assiniboine, all the features of special interest being pointed out by Mr. McCaw on a large map of the district which he had specially prepared. At the close of the address the speaker was accorded a hearty vote of thanks.
Gives Motor Ambulance
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Thursday March 18, 1915. p.5.
The Alpine Club of Canada, of which Arthur O. Wheeler, of Sidney, is the director, has forwarded the sum of $2,144 to the Central committee of the Red Cross Society, Toronto, for the purchase of a motor ambulance for the use of the Canadian Expeditionary Force at the front. The ambulance is to be purchased through the Canadian Red Cross commissioner in London, and the gift represents the members of the Alpine Club throughout the dominion. Mr. Wheeler wishes to express through the local press his appreciation from members of the Victoria branch. Contributions were also received from members in England and the United States.
Alpine Club of Canada
Reported in Rod and Gun in Canada Vol. XVI, No. 11, April 1915. p.1116 – 1118.
On the evening of February 23rd, The Vancouver Island Section held its monthly meeting in Victoria. The Vice-Chairman Mr. Robert D. McCaw, D.L.S., B.C.L.S. read a most interesting paper on “Some Trips Taken During a Summer Spree Along the Banff-Windermere Motor Road.” Some of our readers will remember that the motor road is being built from Banff to Windermere in the Columbia Valley through the Vermillion and Sinclair passes which will open up a vast tract of magnificent mountain country practically unknown. The following extracts from the paper should be of interest to the general reader.
“Prospector Valley is the first large valley tributary to the Vermillion, named no doubt from the mineral claims situated therein. The valley is drained by Tokumm Creek, which joins the Vermillion about four miles below the Pass. The source of this creek lies in a snowfield at Opabin Pass between Mounts Biddle and Neptuak, and the width varies, the average being about fifty feet. At present a pack trail extends up stream about two miles, and a rider could get further by following the stream bed. The first interesting feature of the valley is the box canyon at the outlet. The mouth of this canyon is situated a few hundred feet from the confluence of Tokumm Creek with the Vermillion River, and extends for about one quarter of a mile upstream. Throughout its entire length the depth seldom falls short of seventy-five feet. Its walls are either sheer or concave, and are scarred by numerous potholes, some still containing a rounded rock, the scouring factor. Many of these potholes are situated more than fifty feet above the present high-water mark and tend to give the canyon a more or less grotesque appearance. In many places it is very narrow, and might be leaped across with ease. At one point there is a natural bridge about ten feet in width. About eight miles from the vermillion River and one-half mile to the north is Kaufmann Lake, contained in a hanging valley between Mt. Deltaform and Peak No. 6 of the Ten Peaks. This lake is about three quarters of a mile in length and does not attain a great width. A fringe of grass, besprinkled with wood anemones and other flowers encircles the lake, while the timber is clean, free from underbrush and pleasant to travel through. Especially beautiful is the alp land on the western slope. The snowfield between Mts. Deltaform and Tuzo is almost entirely visible from the lake which, with the glacier below, sends down the stream that causes the lake to exist. The shores would make an excellent camping ground, especially for those desirous of climbing Mt. Deltaform or any of the immediate peaks. The Opabin Pass lies at the source of Tokumm Creek and although horses cannot be taken over it, the tourists may cross the pass on foot and view the beautiful Lakes O’Hara and McArthur a short distance on the opposite side. A very interesting and peculiar freak of natural rock formation is found in the valley near Opabin Pass. A rock tower rises from the valley and supports on top a mass of rock resembling an eagle with wings outspread. Ochre Creek enters the Vermillion River at the point where it bends towards the southeast. The name is derived from the beds of mineral deposit near the junction. The ochre or paint beds as they are locally called, are found about one mile above the mouth of Ochre Creek, and lie a few hundred feet back from the Vermillion River. It has been deposited by mineral springs which lie about one thousand feet back from the river. Two of the springs resemble swamps with a bottom of ooze. One is a spring proper—a basin-shaped pool about four feet across. The mineral compound (iron oxide for the most part) is being deposited and is gradually building up the rim of the basin, which is now some three feet above the level of the surrounding ground. The water has that brackish, metallic taste peculiar to springs containing iron compounds. The three pools are situated within twenty-five feet of one another; the stream from them flows over first a yellow, then an orange, and then a reddish bed to the flats below. These extend for probably fifteen or twenty acres, the color running from buff to deep orange and, in some places, vermillion. They are drained by a creek which runs parallel to the river, its gravel bed colored by deposits from the water running over it. The colors become fainter and are soon lost in the Vermillion River. The paint beds are of historic interest from the fact that they have in times gone by been the rendezvous of Indians from the east who came there to satisfy themselves with decorative material in the way of war paint. As the ochre is very finely divided it would answer that purpose very well. The extensive remains of old tepee poles in the vicinity give some indication of the large number of Indians who made use of these deposits.”
Alpine Club Held Annual Banquet
Director Announced Annual Camp at Ptarmigan Valley; Patriotic Speeches
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Monday April 12, 1915. p.14.
The interesting announcement that contrary to the expectation of the majority of the members, a camp would be held during the coming summer was made by Director Arthur O. Wheeler at the annual meeting of the Vancouver Island section of the Alpine Club of Canada held on Saturday evening (April 10). The camp is to be held in the Ptarmigan Valley, a few miles from Laggan, on the north side of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The camp will be held about the middle of July, will last twelve days, and will provide accommodation for seventy-five persons. The statement was heard with appreciation with several members present who hoped to be able to join the annual outing. The annual gathering took place on Saturday at the Brentwood Hotel, about thirty-five members and specially invited guests being present. The occasion was singularly enjoyable, the spacious new hotel, with its considerate hosts, affording unusual advantages for an affair of the kind. The proceeding opened with the usual banquet, Captain William W. Foster, M.P.P., chairman of the Vancouver Island section occupying the seat of honor, and at the head of the table with him being Mrs. Foster, Director A.O. Wheeler, Mrs. Clara Wheeler, William S. Drewry and Mrs. McCaw. The vice-chairman, Mr. Robert D. McCaw, occupied the other end of the long table, and others of the executive present were Miss Jennie L. McCulloch, the secretary-treasurer, and Misses Margaret Cowell and Sara A. Spencer. The tables were very effectively decorated, bowls of dogwood and wild lilies forming this principal feature in this respect, while a unique touch was found in the miniature Alpine scene of granite rock with its rope debonair Alpinists armed with ice axes. Place cards were threaded with the club colors, green, silver and white, and individual menu cards were made into attractive souvenirs with photographs of grandly picturesque spots in the Canadian Rockies. The first toast, “The King,” proposed by the chair, was responded to with loyal enthusiasm, the whole company joining in the national anthem. In his address Captain Foster reviewed the events leading up to the war, and of some of the more outstanding features of the grave conflict which was shaking Europe and the world to its very foundations. Before concluding he made reference to the splendid strength of Britain’s bulwark on the seas, speaking of the navy as “a cordon of iron round the British Isles.” The patriotic character of the address, was well as the feeling manner in which it was delivered, won for the speaker a very enthusiastic round of applause at its conclusion. Director A.O. Wheeler also spoke of the brave men who were fighting for the empire and the allies in the present war, expressing on behalf of the Alpine Club a wish for their safe return. He, too, was optimistic of the outcome. The principles for which the war was being waged must triumph. The game of mountaineering was said to bring out all that was best or worst in mankind; how much more would this saying apply to such a war as the present. Fifty-two members of the Alpine Club of Canada were now on military duty, some already having been wounded in the empire’s cause. About three months ago a suggestion had been submitted to the eight sections of the club for some co-operative expression of sympathy toward the empire. A motor-ambulance fund was opened, and the sum of $2,149 was send on March 15 to the executive chairman of the central committee of the Canadian Red Cross society of Toronto to be forwarded to the Canadian Red Cross commissioner in London for the purchase of the ambulance. English and American sections had been generous in donations to this fund, and on behalf of the society he wished to express appreciation for their attitude. Reviewing on this, its ninth birthday, the club’s activities for the past year, Mr. Wheeler stated that the attendance at the club house at Banff was the largest in the experience of the organization, viz., 162. The annual camp, which opened on July 21 and closed on August 11, was attended by 206 members, being the largest camp in the history of the club. Of the two Swiss guides who had been present with the club on that occasion, he had to record with regret the death of Walter Schauffelberger, news of whose death reached here just about three weeks ago. The thanks of the club were due to Hayter Reed, until recently manager of the C.P.R. hotels, for the loan of two additional Swiss guides, and to Mr. W. MacPherson, a passenger traffic manager for the western division of the C.P.R. Sympathy was extended to F.W. Freeborn. An interesting account of the more notable climbs and expeditions made by members of the club, aside from the annual camp, was include in the paper, which also noted the election of J.D. Paterson to succeed Dr. Coleman. The assembled company stood during the singing of the patriotic son, “The Soldier of the King,” Mr. McCaw accompanying at the piano. A very delightful paper entitled “Souffles des Alpes,” written by Mr. McHutcheon, a Scottish member of the society, was read by Gordon Cameron. The tables were cleared away after their dinner, and, to the accompaniment of Mr. Heaton’s playing, dancing was kept up till after midnight, proceedings concluding with the singing of the club song, “Hail to Our Mountains,” to the tune of the Russian national anthem. During the evening vocal solos were furnished by D.C. Hughes, Miss McLaren and Mrs. McCaw.
Annual Meeting of Alpine Club Branch
Enjoyable Banquet Held at Brentwood – Camp Arranged For This Summer
Reported in the Daily Colonist Tuesday April 13, 1915, p.4.
The annual banquet of the Vancouver Island branch of the Alpine Club of Canada was held on Saturday night [April 10] at the Brentwood Hotel. Capt. W. [William] W. Foster, M.P.P., chairman of the branch presided, and was accompanied at the head table by Mrs. Foster, Director A. [Arthur] O. Wheeler, Mrs. [Clara] Wheeler, W. [William] S. Drewry and Mrs. McCaw. The vice-chairman took the other end of the table, others of the executive who were present being Miss J. [Jennie] L. McCulloch, the secretary-treasurer and the Misses M. [Margaret] Cowell and Sara E. Spencer. In addition, some thirty-five members and invited guests were present. After the loyal toast had been honored, Capt. Foster gave a patriotic address, which was followed by a review of the club’s activities by Mr. A.O. Wheeler, the club’s director. Mr. Wheeler mentioned that fifty-two members of the Alpine Club of Canada were serving with the troops, several having already suffered wounds in the Empire’s cause. A motor ambulance fund had been opened and $2,149 sent on March 15 to be forwarded to the Canadian red Cross commissioner in London for the purchase of the ambulance. A paper written by Mr. McHutcheon entitled “Soffles des Alpes,” read by Mr. Gordon Cameron, was much appreciated, after which the remainder of the evening was spent in the enjoyment of music and dancing. The following ladies and gentlemen contributed to the musical programme: Mr. and Mrs. McCaw, Miss McLaren and Messrs. D.C. Hughes and Heaton, the proceedings coming to a close with the singing of the club song, “Hail to Our Mountains.” The tables were very effectively decorated, bowls of dogwood and wild lilies forming the principal feature in this respect a unique touch was found in the miniature Alpine scene of granite rock with its rope of debonair Alpinists armed with ice axes. Place cards were threaded with the club colors, green, silver and white, and individual menu cards were made into attractive souvenirs with photographs of grandly picturesque spots in the Canada Rockies. The camp is to be held this year in Ptarmigan Valley, near Laggan about the middle of July.
Alpine Club Notes
Reported in Rod and Gun in Canada Vol. XVI, No. 12, May 1915. p.1209 – 1210.
An additional extract from the paper referred to in our last issue is being read by Mr. Robert D. McCaw, D.L.S., B.C.L.S. at a meeting of the Vancouver Island Section, may be of interest to readers of this department.
“On August 2 [1914] I made my second and successful attempt on Mt. Ball, accompanied by two of my assistants. The start was made from a camp on Hawk Creek to the south of the mountain. It was five minutes to seven when we left, and we followed the west fork of this stream from a short distance and started to climb the side of Isabelle Peak in order to get into the glacier bed which I had in mind from previous ascents in the neighborhood. Fortunately, the timber was very thinly scattered and climbing was not fatiguing. This glacier bed was reached about an hour and a half after leaving camp, and it is one of the most interesting features that I found during the whole summer. It is about three-quarters of a mile in length and varies in width, averaging about a quarter of a mile. The entire surface has been worn by glacial movement and in part is very smooth. The grade is not heavy and one could generally strike a fairly quick pace in going over it. Potholes and fissures occur all over the surface and the rock in places has the appearance of a honey-comb cut in half. Some of the potholes appear as if they had been drilled so regular are they in shape. The depth varied up to twenty feet. One in particular I noticed had a stream of water falling from its side part way down and disappearing by a subterranean passage. The composition of the bed is of fairly soft rock with dikes of harder rock between which the soft has been gouged out. On the east and west the bed is bound by high, steep serrated ridges. There was no water flowing over the bed, all the water from the snow and ice fields finding outlet through an under-ground passage or passages. The floor of the amphitheater rises more steeply towards the north and at the upper edge of the bed are huge piles of morainal detritus. We climbed over these piles of rocks and estimated that they must have been one hundred and fifty feet high. Over this pile of rock one is immediately upon Glacier No. 6. Practically all of the fresh snow had disappeared from the forefoot, and but few snow bridges were left, so that we had to find the narrow parts in the crevasses in order to jump across. It was rather interesting as we ascended the glacier and looked down into the crevasses, which were getting deeper, to imagine what it would feel like to be precipitated below. The ice cap on the summit was getting more distinct and we were still about 1000 feet below it, and the glacier we were on was bounded at the upper end and sides by steep rock walls, with chimneys and one or two snow couloirs. We were undecided as to a route and did not choose until we reached the bergschrund. This was rather formidable looking, but would have to be crossed to reach a snow couloir on our left. Another route was by means of a chimney on our right hand and a little further back on the glacier. The crevasse at the edge was crossed easily in a narrow part and a steep snow slope ascended at the base of a chimney. I might say that we put on the rope when we first started upon the ice and took it off while going up this chimney. It was but fifty feet high and although short was slow work. One of us ascended half way and dropped the rope to assist the other two, making the top in two shifts, and using elbows, knees, feet and hands in order to get a grip on the rock which had few good hand and foot holds. Above this chimney a steep terraced rock slope took us to the snowfield above without difficulty. We again roped and zig-zagged to the summit and found ourselves on the ridge south of the main dome, which was about half a mile north. We wandered south along the ridge to a rock tower and sat down to enjoy a prune or a raisin, I’ve forgotten which, and the scenery. I do not remember what the time was here. The day was bright and sunshiny, and only one who has been on a big peak such a day can form any idea of what the surroundings look like. The myriads of snow peaks all around and Assiniboine towering loftily above all those away to the southeast, with Goodsir, the Ten Peaks, Deltaform and many others on the west, are impossible of description. When we had partially satisfied our visions, we followed along near the edge of the snow cornice northerly to the first dome, or Ball junior as I called it. The dome is a separate part of Mt. Ball and is about 10,200 feet in altitude above sea level. A narrow col connects it with the main dome. In descending the north face of the small dome some thirty ice steps were required, and we were on the col. Looking back along the ridge which, incidentally, is a part of the continental divide, we could see the great snow cornice or overhang upon which we had been travelling, and rather shuddered when the step drop, some 1,500 feet to the slopes below on the Alberta side of the mountain, met our eyes. Again, looking northerly, a most spectacular ice fall from the great dome is seen in the Alberta side. The glacier falls down a precipitous slope for one thousand feet or more, and is fissured, crevassed and contorted in a most wonderful manner. Seracs stood out in parts and now and again great blocks of ice went crashing and roaring to the slopes below. An almost continuous groaning and creaking was heard as if the whole glacier was trying to break away. We continued across the col and sat down by a small trickle of water to eat lunch. Strange to say, we must have decided upon the same location that some previous climbers had chosen, as several Peter’s Milk Chocolate covers were still there, and a piece of shale had the initials F>W.H. scratched upon it. Having partially satisfied our appetites, as I am sorry to say most of the sandwiches had disappeared before this, we zig-zagged up the side of the main dome and reached the last bit of rock near the top. Here we found the stone man erected by previous climbers. Of course, we looked for the container holding the precious documents and found that our predecessors had fared most sumptuously on Bartlett pears, as a tin can with the label still intact held the records. A piece of paper with the names of two ropes of climbers from the Alpine Club Camp, vermillion Pass, 1912, was found therein. And now arose a difficulty. None of us had a pencil and we wanted to place all our names upon record. Happily, one of the boys had a soft nosed bullet which was immediately sharpened and the names of J.P. Scarlett, J.M. Thomas and R.D. McCaw were forth-with added to the list with the date, and the work upon which we were engaged. The record contained the signatures of Rudolph Aemmer, Francis MacMillan, Malcom Bright, A.P. Coleman, C.B. Sissons, Blanche Hume, T.H. Ingram and F.W. Hewton. Appended was the statement that they had had a pleasant trip from camp byway of the main valley. The cairn was rebuilt and we proceeded to the summit which is almost at the north edge of the snow and ice cap. We did not remain here long as it was two o’clock p.m. and camp must be reached for the evening meal. We descended by practically the same route and reached camp at five-forty-five p.m. having made the ascent of 5,700 feet, visited the main ridges, and returned to camp in a little less than eleven hours well pleased with the day. Mt. Ball is undoubtedly one of the most interesting glacier hung mountains in this portion of the Rockies. There are six separate glaciers on its sides with numerous small hanging glaciers and two ice caps. The snowfields are not of great extent, but the cornices are immense and have large overhangs. Mt. Ball was first ascended by Mr. J.D. Patterson in 1904 but at the time I did not know of it, and so did not look for further records.”
Alpine Club Camps
Programmes Of Summer Camps Ready; Arrangements for Accommodating Guests at Club House
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Wednesday May 26, 1915. p.13.
The Alpine Club of Canada has issued programmes of the summer camps to be held under its auspices this year. Arrangements have been made to outfit small camping parties from the club house, Banff, for expeditions in the vicinity. A camp is ready for occupation in the club grounds on Tuesday, June 15, and will be in operation while the club house is open. Each tent house will accommodate two, but occupants should bring their own camp bedding and toilet articles, towels, soap, etc. Those who cannot conveniently take bedding may obtain two pairs of blankets, also a pillow, for a small charge per day. Camp meals will be served at regular hours in the dining room. The club house is two miles from the railway station, and special livery will be operated in connection there-with for the benefit of visitors and guests.
Would Retain Name of Highest Peak
A.O. Wheeler Makes Protest Against Change of Mount Robson
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Monday November 8, 1915. p.14.
Since the suggestion was first mooted by Sir Richard McBride that the name of Mount Robson be changed to Mount Cavell, in memory of the British Red cross nurse who was murdered by Germans in Brussels, there has been some little discussion as to the origin of the naming of the mountain. The first though is rather naturally that it is so called in honor of Hon. John Robson, a former premier of the province, but this is not so, the name going back for beyond this time. The peak is the highest point in British Columbia of the Rocky Mountains, and has of recent years given a name to the Mount Robson Park, one of the National Parks of Canada. It has been a popular climb for the members of the Alpine Club, and the references to it in literature and handbooks are frequent. Arthur O. Wheeler, director of the Alpine Club of Canada, makes a protest against the proposed change as involving a loss that would be greatly felt, “by the extinction of a name that will forever be identified with the great central mass if that contains a distinctive scenic world of its own.” Mr. Wheeler quotes H.J. Moberly, the well-known Hudson’s Bay Company factor, to whom he had written three years ago to ask if he knew anything of the origin of the name. It is mentioned by Milton and Cheadle, who made the trip across the continent on horse back in 1863, but the reference to it in their book rather proves that it was an existing name than that it was given by them, as the former chief geographer of the department of the interior thought. What Mr. Moberly says is that years before the Northwest Fur Company was amalgamated with the H.B. Co., which occurred in 1821, it was the custom of the aggressive Montreal group of fur traders to send out parties for two-year trips hunting and trading. One of these was under Peter S. Ogden—for whom Ogden Point, the site of the new breakwater, is named—and then west of the Rockies he scattered his hunters in parties each under a foreman. One of the parties was under the charge of a man named Robson, with its camp somewhere in the vicinity of the mountain, and on account of the commanding mass it was made the rallying point where all the parties came together to return east. It would easily happen that “Robson’s Peak” would be used to describe it under these circumstances. Mr. Wheeler suggest that if it is desired to perpetuate Miss Cavell’s name through the permanence of a mountain peak, the name might be added to the existing name of Mount Edith, in the Rocky Mountain Park, near Banff. This he describes as a strikingly sharp peak, rising as a splendid spire in full view of the many thousands who pass up and down the Bow River. “While willing in such behalf to relinquish the sentimental reverence for historic names that is held by all mountain lovers, were such a relinquishment the only course, I feel satisfied that the end desired should be obtained quite as appropriately without such a change, and hope that further consideration will see the matter in this light,” writes Mr. Wheeler.
Recruitment poster for the 99th Battalion, Canadian Expeditionary Force.
1916
ACCVI Executive:
Honorary Chairman – William Foster
Chairman – Robert McCaw
Secretary-Treasurer – Jennie McCulloch
Executive Committee – William Drewry, William Dougan, Gordon Cameron, Nancy McCulloch, Margaret Cowell, Alan Morkill
Events:
January – Meeting cancelled owing to unprecedented weather conditions.
February – Club meeting where Arthur Wheeler gave a talk on his summer work in the High Rock Range and Frederick Godsal gave a talk about climbing in Southern Alberta.
March 25 – Club’s annual banquet held at the Brentwood Hotel. Twenty-four members and their guests were present. Paul A. Wallace (Toronto) was guest at the dinner.
December 18 – The Vancouver Island Section held its annual meeting on 18th of December at the Brentwood Hotel. The Chairman for the ensuing year will be Robert McCaw and Secretary Jennie McCulloch, 912 Linden Avenue, Victoria, both being re-elected. Monthly meetings will be held at the Brentwood Hotel, being equally convenient for the Victoria and Sidney members.
Eleventh annual ACC summer camp at Healy Creek, Bow Valley July 13 – July 31: Outfit – All ladies climbing must wear knickerbockers with puttees or gaiters. Skirts and bloomers are a danger when climbing. Section members who attended the camp: Arthur and Clara Wheeler, William Foster, Stanley Mitchell.
Alpine Club Holds Annual Banquet
Director A.O. Wheeler Delivers Address at Anniversary Dinner Held at Brentwood Hotel
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Monday March 27, 1916. p.13.
“Our members, near and dear, whom we picture in our mind’s eye as associated with the great exploits and the little incidents of our past camps are moving to the march of armed thousands who shake the earth with their tread; shot and shell are all around them; their lives are momentarily in danger. And still, it could not be otherwise. What is right must be maintained; what is right must prevail. We can only pray that the end will soon be, and that our dearly loved comrades will be able once more to gather with us amidst the grand mountains we love so well.” Arthur O. Wheeler, director of the Alpine Club of Canada, was speaking at the tenth anniversary dinner of the Vancouver Island section of the organization which was held on Saturday [March 25] evening at the Brentwood Hotel. Twenty-four members and friends were present, the chairman of the local section, Robert D. McCaw, presiding. Speeches, music and dancing were adjuncts to this annual gathering of members. By request of the chairman Mr. Wheeler acted as toastmaster at the banquet, a sumptuous repast which has been arranged with commendable foresight by the management of the Brentwood Hotel. There were four tables, arranged as a quadrangle round a smaller table displaying the Union Jack in the spacious dining room. The first toast, “The King,” was responded to by the whole gathering rising and singing the national Anthem. Hearty applause followed the drinking of the toast to the Alpine Club Director, A.O. Wheeler, proposed by William S. Drewry, the director responding to this by reading his annual address of which the above paragraph is a part.
Directors Address
“It is sad that the occasion of our tenth anniversary should be marred by the throes of a death struggle in which many of our best known and loved members are in imminent peril of their lives,” began the director. “For the second time we have gathered to celebrate this annual occasion while the sound of great guns is in our ears and the clash of armed hosts fill us with dread. It is difficult in the view of the mighty happenings that are taking place to give our interest and attention to such minor details of existence as our Alpine Club affairs. But the club has been the means of creating close friendship, and many are now in the midst of the dangers and hardships of the greatest war the world has ever known. Even so, word comes to us in cherry fashion from the forefront of the battleline that our comrades there have us well in mind, and are looking forward with keen anticipation to the day when we shall again foregather round the camp fire. To us, at home, it should be a sacred trust to keep our Alpine circle well preserved and ready to supply the desire so keenly expressed by those who are risking their lives for all we hold dear. It was with this object in view that we endeavored, last year, to carry on as usual in spite of the majority opinion of the club.” The director proceeded to review the club doings for the year just closed, devoting quite a part of his address to the work of the annual camp in the Rockies last summer when 103 members were under canvas and several “first ascents” made, while small groups of enthusiasts had attempted independent climbs in other parts of the mountains, Mt. Cavell (named in commemoration of the martyred Nurse Edith Cavell) being among the number. Reference was also made to the good climbs that are within reach of the club house at Banff, which will be opened again as usual on June 1 for summer climbers, the result of which would be made known, while efforts were being made at the present time to negotiate a camp. The Alpine Club Journal, it was announced, would be brought out as usual.”
Planning Reunion
“I am already planning a great reunion beneath everlasting snows of Mt. Assiniboine,” the director continued. When the times comes, I feel sure that it will be the greatest occasion of our existence. Eighty-four of our members are on military duty. Of these 21 have acquired honor of service of their country, either by wounds, as prisoners of war, by honorable mention, or by decorations and orders. Their names are as follows, the rank indicating promotion: L.S. Amery, Captain on general staff; W.A. Aldritt, prisoner at Gutersloh; C.G. Arthur, D.S.O.; F.C. Bell, Major, wounded, mentioned in dispatches twice; R.J. Casement, Corp. D.C.M.; J.A. Clark, Lieutenant Colonel; R.P. Clark, Military Cross; W.W. Foster, Captain, divisional grenade instructor; C.W. Gray, wounded; Dr. J.A. Gunn, Lieutenant Colonel; J.H. Heskeths, Major, D.S.O.; J.R.N. Irven, lieutenant, wounded; S.L. Jones, Captain, twice wounded; F.V. Longstaff, Major; C.H. Mitchell, Lieutenant Colonel, mentioned in dispatches, Cross of the Legion of Honor; W.F.M. Pearce, wounded; E.F. Pilkington, Major; F.A. Robertson, Major; T. Trant, wounded; A.F. Wedgewood, wounded; E.O. Wheeler, Captain, Military Cross, Cross of Legion of Honor, mentioned three times in dispatches.” The assembled company stood again to drink a toast to these members and their comrades who were so nobly fulfilling the best traditions of the nation, and supplemented the silent deference by singing with great feeling “Soldiers of the King.”
Other Speakers
Joshua E. Umbach, chief draughtsman in the surveyor general’s department of the provincial government, read a poem, “Mike Mullen,” by the late J. Herrick McGregor, “a good business man, a good mountaineer, a good soldier, who died in Flanders fighting for his country.” The tribute was supplemented by a few words from A.O. Wheeler, expressive of his admiration and love of the dead soldier. Others who spoke were James. J. White, of Sidney; Mr. Roche, Gordon Cameron, who read a parody on “The Walrus” (from Alice in Wonderland), having very direct reference to Alpinists. The musical part of the programme was by no means negligible in the evening’s enjoyment, among those who contributed charming numbers being Miss Eva Hart [Mrs. Eva Gillian—1880-1978—known professionally as Eva Hart arrived in Victoria from England in 1912 and became a well-known singer in the theatre] (whose name was specifically mentioned in the vote of thanks at the end of the entertainment): Mrs. R.D. McCaw, Miss McLaren, Mr. Tomlinson and others, Miss White, R.D. McCaw and A. Dobson very able accompanists for the singers, and the first two named also played for dancing which was kept up until midnight.
Alpine Club Notes
Notes From The Vancouver Island Section
Reported in Rod and Gun in Canada Vol. XVII, No. 12, May 1916. p.29 – 30.
“Although in common with all other organizations our Section is feeling the effects of the war,” writes the Secretary [Jennie McCulloch] of the Vancouver Island Section, “many of our members, including our popular Chairman, Captain William W. Foster, being at the front, we have kept up our regular monthly meetings during the past winter. The meetings have, as formerly, been held at the comfortable Alexandra Club, where the cheery open fire and the coffee and sandwiches at the close of the meeting have served as substitutes for our Camp-fire and tea tent of summer days. At the December [1915] meeting the proposed change of the name Mount Robson to Mount Cavell was taken up and discussed. There was much opposition to the change, but as correspondence with the Geographic Board at Ottawa disclosed the fact that no application for such change had been received by them, as indicated by the newspapers, it was decided to let the matter rest. Since then, as we all know, the name “Cavell” has been given to another mountain. Election of officers was also held at this meeting. The January meeting had to be cancelled owing to unprecedented weather conditions which prevailed in Victoria about this time, a genuine Eastern “Blizzard” holding sway that evening and the Sidney trains being held up the Director [Arthur Wheeler], who was giving the address of the evening, was unable to come. At the February meeting two very interesting papers were read. In the first Mr. Arthur Wheeler gave us an account of his summer’s work in the High Rock Range, including a description of the thrilling electrical storm on Gould’s Dome while the party were at work there. Mr. Frederick W. Godsal, of Cowley, Alta., in the second paper gave us an account of some of his climbers in Southern Alberta, and these happened to be not far from the region which Mr. Wheeler had just spoken. We were fortunate in having with us two other out-of-town members as guests, besides Mr. Godsal, Miss Pearce of Calgary and Reverend W.F. O’Neill Fisher, of Greencourt, Alta. The Annual Dinner, celebrating the anniversary of the Club, was held at the beautiful Brentwood Hotel on Saturday, March 25th, and was a decided success. Twenty-four members and their guests were present and a most enjoyable evening spent. At the close of the splendid dinner three cheers were given, “The King,” “The Alpine Club”, and “Our Members at the Front,” all of which were heartily-drunk and well responded to. The Director then read his annual address, after which an informal programme of music and dancing was enjoyed. “Paul A.W. Wallace, of Toronto, who will be remembered as the Assistant Secretary at the Robson Camp, was present as a guest at our dinner.”
Alpine Club Will Camp in Bow Valley
Eleventh Annual Camp Will Keep Alive Camp-Fire Circle On Behalf of Members At The Front.
Reported in the Daily Colonist Sunday July 23, 1916, p.9.
The Alpine Club of Canada has arranged to hold its eleventh annual camp – the second war camp – in the Bow Valley. The camp will be known as “The Bow Valley Camp,” and will be operated in conjunction with the Club house at Banff. It will open on Thursday, July 12, and close Monday July 31. The object of the camp is announced to be to keep alive the camp-fire circle on behalf of the members now on active military service for the Empire. Accommodation will be prepared for 100 persons. In accordance with clause 14 of the constitution, the annual meeting of the club will be held during the camp for the election of officers, presentation of reports, and transactions of business. The main camp will be placed in the Bow Valley, on the south side of the river, below the Massive Range, at an altitude of between 5,000 and 6,000 feet above sea level. This range contains a number of fine peaks, of which Pilot Mountain, Mount Brett, one unnamed, and Mount Bourgeau are the most conspicuous. It is the home of the wild goat, and flocks congregate in the alpine meadows of its hanging valleys. Facilities will be provided to cross the Bow River and so to visit Hole-In-The-Wall Mount, Mount Edith, and Mount Louie, the last a difficult peak yet unclimbed. There are many other fine peaks in the area.
Off To Banff
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Friday August 4, 1916. p.11.
Miss Jennie McCulloch left early in the week for Banff, where she will spend her vacation as a guest at the club house of the Alpine Club of Canada.
1917
ACCVI Executive:
Chairman – Robert McCaw
Secretary-Treasurer – Jennie McCulloch
Events:
March 28 – Club’s annual banquet held at the Brentwood Hotel. Twenty members present.
Section members who attended the ACC’s twelfth annual summer camp held at Cataract Valley July 17 – July 31: Arthur Wheeler, Edward Wheeler, William Foster.
Ye tumbling streams and towering peaks,
That fill my soul with ecstasy.
Belittle every tongue that speaks,
Would that I might sing praise to thee!
And tell the world of raptures rare
Which I behold: but I am dumb.
The spell is on me – visions fair
Fill my poor brain, but words won’t come.
By Adeline Baxter in Rod and Gun in Canada Vol. XIX, No. 7, December 1917. p.808.
Alpine Club Dinner
Reported in the Daily Colonist Saturday March 24, 1917, p.4.
The members of the Vancouver Island section of the Alpine Club of Canada are holding their annual dinner at Brentwood on Wednesday evening, the 28th instant. As many of their numbers are now at the front serving their country, and others have fallen during the war, the usual programme of music and dancing following the dinner, will be dispensed with, and in its place a number of lantern views of the Canadian Rockies and the New Zealand Alps will be shown. To this latter entertainment the guests of the hotel and any others interested will be made welcome, and a silver collection in aid of the Red Cross funds will be taken.
Alpine Club Notes
Mountain Views Substituted for Usual Speech-Making at Annual Dinner of Vancouver Island Section
Reported in Rod and Gun in Canada Vol. XIX, No. 1, June 1917. p.90.
The seventh annual dinner of the Vancouver Island Section of the Alpine Club of Canada took place on Wednesday, March 28th, at the Brentwood Hotel. The function was presided over as usual by the President, Mr. Robert D. McCaw, 20 members being present. A particularly pretty arrangement of wild lilies and Oregon grape formed the centre piece of the table, the ladies responsible for this artistic setting being Mrs. Clara Wheeler and Mrs. J.J. White, of Sidney, who made an excursion to a neighboring island to gather the flowers. The customary after dinner speeches and musical programme were dispensed with this year and in their stead were shown some very fine Alpine views, visitors at the hotel other than the Alpine Club members being invited into the lounge at this point to share in the pleasures of the entertainment. At the conclusion of the excellent repast prepared by the hotel management three toasts were proposed, “The King,” “The Alpine Club,” and “Our Absent Members,” being responded to by the members silently standing and drinking to the honor of each. In his annual address to the Club, Director Arthur Wheeler made special reference to Captain Arthur F. Wedgewood, one of the Club members, news of whose death in the service of the Empire had just a day or two ago been received. Captain Wedgewood was an Englishman, but had been over in this country several times and had joined the Canadian Alpine Club camps in the Rockies on more than one occasion. His death was a real loss to the Club, but was the voluntary sacrifice of yet another patriot in defense of the principles for which Allies were fighting. Announcement was also made that this year’s camp would be at Cathedral Mountain, the site of the 1913 Camp. An auxiliary camp was to be at Lake O’Hara. The beautiful Alpine pictures which were subsequently thrown on the screen were of views in the Canadian Rockies and the New Zealand Alps. The former were by Mr. Arthur Wheeler, F.R.G.S., and the latter by Herbert O. Frind, F.R.G.S. Among Mr. Wheeler’s pictures was one of Major William W. Foster, honorary president of the Vancouver Island Section of the Club, and for the past two years on active service at the front. This was greeted with a demonstration of enthusiasm, their soldier president being very popular not only with the local section but throughout the Club membership. Another popular picture was that of captain Edward. O. Wheeler, R.E., Director Wheeler’s son, now in India after serving in the Mesopotamia campaign; while other soldier members’ pictures thrown on the screen were those of Colonel C.H. Mitchell, of Toronto; the late Major Stanley Jones, of Calgary, who died of wounds received in battle, and Captain Arthur Wedgewood, mention of whom is made above. After the pictures a collection in aid of the Red Cross was taken up amongst the members, the sum of $9.00 being realized. It was late in the evening when the gathering dispersed, Victoria and Sidney members returning to their home by the latest trains going in the respective directions.
Mining In British Columbia
Bear River, Clayoquot Division
Reported in The Daily Colonist Friday October 12, 1917, p.13.
By E. Jacobs
In his comprehensive “Report on the Copper-Gold-Silver Ore Deposits on Vancouver Island and Adjacent Islands.” printed in the last Annual report of the Minister of Mines, Mr. W.M. Brewer gave the following information relative to the bear River district of Clayoquot Mining Division. Bear River flows from the north into Bedwell Sound, to the northern arm of Clayoquot Sound at a distance of about twenty-five miles from the settlement of Clayoquot and Tofino, at the entrance of the last named sound. There is a weekly steamer service from Victoria to these settlements during the Summer months and a service three times each month during the Winter season. During 1898, 1899 and 1900 there was considerable activity in mining operations in this part of Clayoquot Mining Division, which was examined by Mr. Herbert Carmichael in 1899, whose report is published in the Minister of Mines Report for that year. Since then and until 1914, when the Ptarmigan Mines, Limited, commenced operations on the mineral claims acquired on the Bear River side of the Big Interior Mountain, there was practically no interest taken in this region. Prospectors merely continued to hold their claims by either doing the annual assessment work or restaking the ground, as it reverted to the Government. Until the commencement of the war the Ptarmigan Mines, Limited, was engaged in building a wagon road and bridges up the Bear River Valley in order to reach the property of the company, which is situated about 15 miles from the mouth of Bear River, at an elevation of about 5,300 feet above sea-level, but since then that company has suspended operations. During 1916 there was some revival of interest by prospectors in the Bear River district and some new locations were made late in the season. The surface ores found in the mountains adjacent to the river are usually of rather exceptional value. The outcroppings occur as gossan [an intensely oxidized, weathered or decomposed rock, usually the upper and exposed part of an ore deposit or mineral vein], under which ore-lenses of chalcopyrite mixed with magnetite are found, belonging to the contact-metamorphic replacement type of ore-deposit. The development work done has not been sufficient to warrant the expression of an opinion as to possibilities that may result from further development. A selected sample from the Galena mineral claim, owned by Mr. Joe Drinkwater, situated about five miles above the mouth of Bear River, taken from the bottom of a shallow winze [a steeply inclined passageway in a mine. When worked upwards from a lower level it is usually called a raise; when sunk downward from a higher level it may be called a sump.], assayed: Gold, trace; Silver, trace; copper 21.4 per cent. Another sample from same claim at thee face of an open-cut approach to an adit assayed: Gold, trace; Silver, 0.2 oz.; Copper, 3.1 per cent.
Alpine Club Has Brilliant Record
Reported in the Daily Colonist Saturday November 17, 1917, p.9.
The Alpine Club of Canada is justly proud of the part taken by its members in the war. Eighty-nine of them – a large proportion of the total – have gone on active service. Seventeen of these has [sic] been killed, sixteen wounded, and two are prisoners of war. Eight have been mentioned in dispatches, one of them twice and another four times. Six have won the military cross, four the D.S.O., one the C.M.G., two the Cross of the Legion of Honor and one the Croix de Guerre. It is indeed a fine Roll of Honor.
1918
ACCVI Executive:
Honorary Chairman – William Foster
Chairman – Robert McCaw
Secretary-Treasurer – Jennie McCulloch
Events:
March 28 – Club’s 12th annual Banquet at Alexandra House.
April 13 – Arthur Wheeler gave an illustrated talk in aid of the Red Cross Society.
Section members who attended the ACC general camp at Paradise Valley from July 16 to July 31: Arthur and Clara Wheeler, Alan Campbell.
Alpine Club Notes
Reported in Rod and Gun in Canada Vol. XIX, No. 8, February 1918. p.1044
The Vancouver Island Section held its Annual Meeting at Brentwood Hotel, near Victoria when again the former officers were re-elected: Colonel William W. Foster, D.S.O., Hon. Chairman, Robert D. McCaw, Chairman, and Miss Jennie L. McCulloch, 912 Linden Ave, Victoria, Secretary. It was decided to hold a meeting in January at which a programme would be submitted by different members each item being limited to ten minutes—just half the space of an ordinary sermon.
Hymn for High Place
In darkened days of strife and fear,
When far from home and hold,
I do essay my soul to cheer,
As did wise men of old;
When folk do go in doleful guise
And are for life afraid
I to the hills will lift mine eyes
From whence doth come my aid.
I shall my soul a temple make
Where hills stand up on high;
Thither my sadness shall I take
And comfort there descry;
For every good and noble mount
This message doth extend—
That evil men must render count
And evil days must end.
For, sooth, it is a kindly sight
To see God’s mountain tall
That vanquisheth each lesser height
As great hearts vanquish small;
Stand up, stand up, ye holy hills,
As saints and seraphs do,
That we may hear these present ills
And lead men safely through.
Let high and low repair and go
To where great hills endure;
Let strong and weak be there to seek
Their comfort and their cure;
And for all hills in fair array
Now thanks and blessings give,
And, bearing healthful hearts away
Home go and stoutly live.
Alpine Club Annual Dinner
Reported in the Daily Colonist Friday March 29, 1918, p.6.
Alpine Club of Canada anniversary dinner on Thursday March 28 at Alexandra House in Victoria. Mr. Arthur O. Wheeler talked about the war effort of club members and read a letter from Lieut.-Col. William W. Foster. Talk of annual camp in Paradise Valley the site of the 1907 camp. Mr. Robert D. McCaw toastmaster.
Annual Dinner of The Vancouver Island Section of The Alpine Club of Canada
The Alpine Club Still “Carries On”
Reported in Rod and Gun in Canada Vol. XIX, No. 12, May 1918. p.1419 – 1420.
“The Alpine Club of Canada has “carried on” since the beginning of the war, and it proposes to carry on as long as its members make it possible to do so. We are under the deepest obligation to our members who are fighting, and it is their deepest wish again to be able to enjoy in our camps the ecstasies of the great hills……. To Have allowed the club to become obsolete would have taken away from our soldier members one of their joyous visions of the future, when peace shall once more reign supreme.” This clause in the address of Director Arthur O. Wheeler at the anniversary dinner of the Vancouver Island Section of the Alpine Club of Canada at Alexandra House conveyed the general feeling of the membership and met with hearty endorsement. A letter read at the gathering from Lieutenant-Colonel William W. Foster, Hon. Chairman of the V.I. section of the Club, who has been in France for nearly three years, still further justified the stand made by the Club in respect to “carrying on,” indicating that one of the happiest prospects which the future held for overseas members now serving in the King’s Army was that of some day returning to Canada to take part in the annual Alpine Club meet in the Rockies. Mr. Wheeler announced that it has been decided to hold the main camp in the coming summer in Paradise Valley on the site of the camp of 1907, an outlying camp, to be in charge of Mr. T.B. Moffat, to be in Consolation Valley. In addition, tents will be placed in Larch Valley for the use of climbers of peaks in the vicinity. The club house at Banff is to be open as usual and is to be in charge of the secretary-treasurer. In the course of his annual address the Director referred to the death of two of the members, Sergeant. R.C. Morrison and Corporal. J.C. Oxborough. Reverend A. Gillies-Wilken, another member, had been released from the German prison camp. Distinctions which had been won by other members were enumerated as follows: Lieutenant-Colonel J.A. Clark, D.S.O. and Bar; Lieutenant-Colonel Charles H. Mitchell, Belgian Croix de Guerre; and Lieutenant-Colonel William W. Foster, Bar to D.S.O. and Belgian Croix de Guerre. Miss M.J. Monk had been invalided home, and Miss M.A.E. Clarke, V.A.D. had married Captain E.M. Phillips, but was still continuing her hospital work.
Toasts: Mr. Robert D. McCaw acted as toast-master, the toasts being “The King,”; “Absent Members,” proposed by Mr. William S. Drewry and responded to by Mr. C.B. Reynolds, who was wounded in the battle of the Somme in 1916 and is now in Esquimalt Military Convalescent Hospital, the “Alpine Club,” proposed by Mr. Frederick W. Godsal and responded to by Mr. Stanley H. Mitchell; “Colonel Foster” proposed By Mr. McCaw and responded to by Mr. Arthur O. Wheeler. The artistic menu cards, bearing a photo of the club house in Banff, were the work of Mr. McCaw. The photo was kindly loaned by Mr. Waites of Calgary. At the close of the dinner an informal programme of music and recitations was rendered by Miss Eva Hart and Miss O. Pearson.
Honored By Italy
Lieut.-Col. Charles Mitchell, Known to All B.C. Alpine Club Members, Wins Further Distinction
Reported in the Daily Colonist Tuesday May 7, 1918, p.5.
Members of the Alpine Club of Canada who live in Victoria and other parts of British Columbia, and who have been ta any of the annual camps with Lieut.-Colonel Charles Mitchell, who is on the executive of the Club, will be interested to learn that this indomitable climber and distinguished soldier has won still another decoration. This time it is the Italian “Order of the Crown,” with which he was recently decorated by King Victor Emmanuel. Colonel Mitchell was at the Alpine Club meet at Mount Robson in 1913, the year that Colonel W. [William] W. Foster (the B.C. representative on the Alpine Club executive) made the ascent of the highest peak of the Canadian Rockies. In 1914 Colonel Mitchell came out to join the camp again, but war broke out before he fulfilled his intentions, and he was in Victoria for a few days before returning to offer his services to the Government for duty overseas. For a long time, he gave signal service in the Intelligence Department, and there are a few Canadians who have been more decorated. He holds the D.S.O., the C.M.G. (Britain), the Legion of Honor (France), the Order of Leopold and the Croix de Guerre (Belgium), and now the “Order of the Crown” (Italy.) Before the war this distinguished officer was a practicing civil engineer in Toronto. For many years a member of the militia force in Ontario, he was always greatly interested in tactics, a fact which will be well remembered by those who associated with him in camp and elsewhere.
Alpine Club Camp
Was Opened in Paradise Valley in Canadian Rockies Yesterday
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Wednesday July 17, 1918. p.8.
Local mountaineering enthusiasts will doubtless be interested to hear that the thirteenth annual camp of the Alpine Club of Canada opened yesterday at Paradise Valley. In the Canadian Rockies, with an outlying camp in Consolation Valley, on the east side of the main range, near Lake Louise Moraine Lake. In these ideal surroundings the members of the club will spend two weeks of climbing and general exploration. The two camps are centrally situated in the great group of which Mounts Hungabee, Victoria, Lefroy and Aberdeen are the dominating peaks. Seven glacier and six mountain passes are close at hand. Paradise Valley camp is directly below Mount Aberdeen; Mount Temple is immediately across the valley. To become an active member of the club the ascent of a glacier-hung peak over 10,000 feet high is required. The honorary president is Sir Edmund Walker, C.V.O., of Toronto; Mrs. Julia W. Henshaw is honorary secretary, and Arthur O. Wheeler, A.C.F.R.G.S., of Sidney, Vancouver Island, is director. The membership includes 600 climbers in Canada, United States and the British Isles.
Old Hobby Attracts Midst War’s Stress
Lieut.-Col. Foster, In Spite of Activities Overseas Looks Forward to Enjoying Season Of Mountain Climbing.
Reported in the Daily Colonist Saturday December 28, 1918, p.12.
To hold through four years of intense military activities a keen desire to return to an old hobby is a very fine proof either of the fidelity of the individual to an old love or of supreme attractions of the said hobby. Yet Lieut.-Col. W. [William] W. Foster, for several years one of the most ardent members of the Alpine Club of Canada, during the whole period of the Great War in letters to Director A. [Arthur] O. Wheeler and other alpinists, has never shown any waning of the old zest which took him year after year into the heart of the Rockies to master some new difficulty of crag and peak. As a soldier he made a great name, and has won many decorations, and as his home is still in Victoria, where his wife and children are still living and awaiting his home-coming, a long letter, which he wrote to the Director of the Alpine Club of Canada, under date November 23 from Belgium, will be interesting to a great many people here as elsewhere throughout the Province. Colonel Foster is the Western vice-president of the Alpine Club of Canada. He was one of the party of the Alpine Club who made the first complete ascent of Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, in 1913, the annual club camp that year being at the base of the mountain. His letter indicates the deep-rooted call of the great hills that becomes part of the very being of the true mountaineer., and it is safe to say that the same spirit is characteristic of all the Alpine Club’s members who went into the war. All who have been heard from during the four years show the same intense desire to get back to the region of the snow-crowned peaks for which British Columbia is so justly celebrated all over the world. Among the many members of the club who have distinguished themselves particularly in the war Colonel Foster has chief place. Leaving as a captain in the 2nd C.M.R. he is now lieutenant-colonel commanding the 52nd Battalion, and has to his credit the D.S.O. and two bars, the Croix de Guerre of Belgium, the Croix de Guerre of France (gold star), and has five times been mentioned in dispatches.
1919
ACCVI Executive:
Honorary Chairman – William Foster
Chairman – Robert McCaw
Secretary – Gordon Cameron
Secretary-Treasurer – Jennie McCulloch
Executive Committee – William Alldritt, William Drewry, Francis Robertson, Margaret Cowell, William Everall.
Events:
March 28 – Club’s 13th annual banquet at Brentwood Hotel.
December 2 – Club meeting to elect executive at Jennie McCulloch’s, Linden Ave.
Section members at the ACC general summer “Victory Camp” at Yoho Valley July 22 – August 5: Arthur and Clara Wheeler, William Foster, Jennie McCulloch.
Section members who passed away in 1919: Ethelbert Scholefield
Wheeler to Give Talk
Reported in the Daily Colonist Sunday March 9, 1919, p.6.
Mr. Arthur O. Wheeler is to give a talk on “Surveying the Great Divide of the Rockies” to the Victoria Branch of the Engineering Institute of Canada at Girls Central School on Thursday March 13, 8 p.m. Admission is free and open to the public.
Anniversary Noted in Usual Manner
Alpine Club of Canada Held Annual Dinner At Brentwood—Returned Soldier Members Speak.
Reported in the Daily Colonist Sunday March 30, 1919, p.4.
The Alpine Club of Canada sustained a well-established custom on Friday evening [March 28] by holding a banquet, on this occasion marking its thirteenth anniversary. The gathering took place at Brentwood Hotel, 21 members meeting round the festive board and sharing the programme of speeches, illustrated lecture, music and dancing that was arranged by way of entertainment after dinner. But one regret was expressed during the course of the evening, that being Lieut.-Col. William W. Foster, D.S.O., M.C., chairman of the Victoria section of the club who went overseas shortly after the annual banquet in the Winter of 1915, had not reached the Coast in time to take part in the proceedings. Director Arthur O. Wheeler and Mr. Robert D. McCaw shared the duties of toastmaster, the first toast proposed being the loyal one of “King and Empire.” Interesting short speeches by returned soldier members of the club were given in response to three of the subsequent toasts, “The Victorious Allies,” “Our Members Overseas” and “The Returned Overseas Members,” the speakers being Mr. C.B. Reynolds, Major Francis A. Robertson, D.S.O., and Flight-Lieut. Gordon Cameron, respectively. Mr. Stanley H. Mitchell, secretary of the Alpine Club of Canada, responded to the toast to the Alpine Club of Canada.
Director’s Address
Director A.O. Wheeler’s was an exhaustive review of the activities of the club during the past year, while detail reference was made to those of its members who had distinguished themselves overseas in the war. “Not least among the records of Canadians and Americans are those of the individual members of the Alpine Club of Canada – Canadians, British, Americans. In all the 113 known members, men and women, have been on active service since the war began. The highest known rank, previous to the war, of any member volunteering was that of major. There are now 12 majors, nine lieutenant-colonels and two brigadier-generals. Below the rank of major are 26 captains and one honorary captain (Mrs. J. [Julia] W. Henshaw), one lieutenant-commander (USA), 24 lieutenants and one honorary lieutenant, French Army (Mrs. Stanley Jones), and five sergeants. Thus, out of 113 volunteers from the Alpine Club who have been on active service overseas 79 hold commanding rank. That speaks for efficiency.” Continuing, the director detailed the distinctions won by Alpine Club members during the war. Eleven members had been killed, two taken prisoners of war and a dozen or more wounded, some several times. Since the last anniversary Lieut. J. Tyler, USA, Air Service, and Lieut. T.J. Taylor, Victoria, had given their lives.
Glorious Record
“It is a glorious record, and one that might have been expected of mountain men and women in a period of such magnificent heroism,” noted the speaker. A number of officers (members of the Alpine Club) had won further distinctions since the last Journal was published: Colonel R.P. Clark, now promoted to Brigadier-General; Col. John A. Clark, Vancouver, promoted to Brigadier-General; Col. Charles H. Mitchell, C.B., Rose of Italy; Col. W.W. Foster, 2nd Bar to D.S.O.; Major F.A. Robertson, Victoria, D.S.O.; Major W.M. Pearce, Calgary, M.C.; Capt. Alan Morkill, M.C.; Lieut. T.J. Tyler, Croix de Guerre.
Victory Camp
Passing from the soldier members’ record of the past, the speaker went on to refer to “the Victory Camp” which is to be held during the coming summer at the summit of Yoho Pass, and to the “Welcome Home Camp” at Mount Assiniboine in 1920, at which it is hoped to have all soldier members as guests. Reference was also made to the Congress of Alpinism to be held at Monaco in the spring of next year. The Alpine Club of Canada has been given full recognition by the inclusion of President Patterson, the two vice-presidents, Colonels Mitchell and Foster and Mr. A.O. Wheeler. “Thirteen years we have been in existence, and are still going strong,” concluded the Director. “Thirteen is supposed to be a hoodoo number. I have always considered it a lucky one, and the fact that our future turns upon it at a general period of reconstruction of the world will, I hope, prove my contention to be correct.”
Lantern Lecture
After the Director’s address the diners adjourned to the big hall, where Mr. Wheeler gave a very interesting lecture, illustrated by wonderfully fine lantern slides, about the mountain terrain lying between the G.T.P. and C.P.R. and big areas of which he traversed in connection with the B.C. boundary survey which is being carried out. The remainder of the evening was pleasantly informal, Miss Jennie McCulloch and Mr. McCaw providing music for dancing, and Mrs. McCaw and Miss McCulloch contributing vocal and pianoforte solos respectively which were greatly enjoyed. Alpine Club songs were used to choruses, in which everyone joined, and the time was pleasantly filled until nearly midnight. All the arrangements were admirably carried out by the special committee composed of Mr. and Mrs. Wheeler, Miss [Margaret] Cowell and Mr. McCaw (who designed very clever souvenir cards), and the hotel furnished an excellent dinner, which was by no means the least of the numerous pleasures of the occasion.
Victory Camp Will Be in The Yoho Valley
Alpinists Meet July 22 To August 5 In Heart of Rockies—Splendid Climbs In Mountainous Region.
Reported in the Daily Colonist Saturday June 21, 1919, p.5.
The prospectus for the fourteenth annual camp of the Alpine Club of Canada has just been issued, and shows that the members who are joining the gathering this year will meet on July 22 to August 5 near the summit of Yoho Pass beside Yoho Lake at “Victory Camp,” with an outlying camp near the mouth of the Upper Yoho Valley. The Alpine Club of Canada was founded in 1906, with Mr. Arthur O. Wheeler, the present director, as its head, and the spirit of the organization has continued to grow in a wonderful way, even surviving the period of the war, which took such large numbers of the members overseas. This year many of the men who have not been able to attend camp since 1914 owing to the fact that they were carrying arms will be back in camp again, and it is expected that the camp gathering will be exceptionally interesting. The main camp as already mentioned, is near the summit of Yoho Pass, near a picturesque little mountain tarn surrounded by groves of spruce and little meadows, where avalanche lilies and white heather grow in abundance. Mountains that may be reached from camp are Mounts Wapta, Field, Michael’s Peak, the Vice-President and President, Mount Carnarvon, Mount Burgess, and others. From the Upper Yoho (the outlying) camp there are in addition Mounts Kerr, Marpole, Kiwyetinok Peak, Whaleback, Isolated Peak, Mount Gordon, Mount McArthur, Mount Des Poilus and Mount Collie. Those who are ambitious can extend their expeditions. A graduating climb, as all members know, is 10,000 feet. Any mountains filling the necessary requirements will be accepted as graduating climbs by aspirants to active membership. The prospectus points out one little thing that the average peripatetic in British Columbia does not know: That Yoho is the Indian word for Grand! Glorious! Wonderful! The Yoho Valley comprises the maximum of mountain scenery in the minimum of area. The usual accommodation provided by the Alpine Club will be furnished. Field Station on the C.P.R., will be the point of arrival by train, while Emerald Lake Chalet, which is to be open for the season, can be made a starting point for the main camp by those who wish. Mr. A.O. Wheeler, who left Sidney, Vancouver Island, about two weeks ago, is in Banff at the present time organizing his survey, and of course will be present when the camp meets in July. The annual, meeting of the club, which always takes place during the holding of the camp, will be very interesting this year, although probably next year the gathering may be even more interesting, the name of the camp already being given as “Welcome Home,” as it is proposed to invite all returned soldier members to attend this gathering as the guests of the club. At the annual meeting this year it is proposed to bring up for discussion the erection of a suitable memorial at the club house, Banff, as a record of the members of the club who have been on active service during the war and to formulate plans for establishing a fund in this connection.
Fosters Leave for Camp
Reported in The Victoria Daily Times Tuesday July 15, 1919. p.6.
Lieutenant-Colonel William W. Foster, D.S.O., M.C., has returned after an absence of several weeks’ duration in Ottawa, and with Mrs. Foster will leave next week to join the Alpine Club camp in the Yoho Valley.
Alpinists Having Successful Camp
Vancouver Island Section Well Represented At Gathering Which Is Meeting This Year In Yoho Valley.
Reported in the Daily Colonist Thursday July 31, 1919, p.9.
Lieut.-Col. William W. Foster, president of the Vancouver Island Section of the Alpine Club of Canada; Mrs. Foster, Miss Jeannie McCulloch, secretary and other members of the organization from here who followed Director Arthur O. Wheeler and Dominion Secretary Stanley Mitchell into the mountains to join the Victory camp of the Alpine Club at Summit Lake, are evidently, together with those from other parts of Canada who are attending the first of the post-war gatherings, enjoying the very best of conditions for the annual outing. Summit Lake is above the Yoho Valley and the camp opened on July 22 for a fortnight. More than one hundred of the members are attending this year, and although this number is not so large as some prior to 1914, this is more than anticipated earlier in the season. Field is the starting point, and camp can be reached by either the Burgess Pass trail, about seven miles, or by way of Emerald Lake. On arriving at camp, one is served with afternoon tea Vancouver Island, Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Macleod, Saskatoon and Winnipeg are responsible for the larger proportion of the campers, but there are about twenty-five members from the United States from as far east as New York, New Jersey and as far south as Indiana. Tuesday, July 22, the first night in camp, a sing-song from the club’s song book was held round the cheerful camp fire, where acquaintanceships were renewed and expeditions for the coming days discussed. On Wednesday parties were made up for the ascent of Mount Michael, hikes to Takakkaw Falls and other points of interest. On Thursday some of the more ardent members climbed Mount Wapta, others walking to the Twin Falls. In the evening the New York section took hold of the entertainment and furnished an excellent programme. On Friday a graduation climb of Mount Vice-President was to take place, but rain prevented any climbing.
Alpine Club of Canada Victory Camp
Reported in the Daily Colonist Tuesday August 19, 1919, p.8.
The “Victory Camp” of the Alpine Club of Canada, held on Yoho Lake the last week of July and the first week of August, was remarkable in that it constituted a reunion of many members who have been overseas during the period of the war and have been unable to attend any of the war-time camps. After ascending Mount Vice President on July 26 with a party, Lieut.-Col. William W. Foster, president of the Vancouver Island section of the Alpine Club and Western vice-president, gave a most interesting address on the work of the Canadian troops in the late war, closing with a continuance for the period of reconstruction upon which the country is entering, of the splendid and patient effort and unfaltering patriotism that had been the factors in winning the war.
Recorded in the personal diary of Stanley Baynes, Port Alberni, September 16 to 14, 1919.
Sept. 16. Tuesday Ellen [Stanley’s wife] drove Mr [Frederick] Godsal to the Port where we took train to Cameron Lake, arriving the about 1 PM. From here we walked to the Nanaimo & Alberni Rd, & about 200 yards towards Alberni met the trail to Mt Arrowsmith. Took zig-zags up a divide first on the left bank of a small stream, then crosses over to the right ultimately leaving the stream far below. The stream gathering its water from the N side of Mt Arrowsmith.
Stanley Baynes, Map 1
Got to the Cabin about 6 PM. Saw the sun set in the W & full moon rise in the E, the moon rising about the same time as the Sun left. Stayed at the Cabin. All night rather cold. Spring up here. Pink & White Heather, Lupine, Thistles, Bluebells, Strawberries, White Rhododendron? Saycle plant? & a lot of other kinds not found in the valley. It seemed a sin to step on them. Trees. Yellow cedar, Hemlock, Jack Pine and others. Some fair sized timber. Park like. There seems to be three sets of Peaks with bridge connecting with the Peaks but deep descent to the bridges.
Stanley Baynes, Map 2
Quite a bit of snow in the sheltered spots or where the sun gets at them very late in the day. The E slopes of the Mt are very steep & run into Lakes. While the W side are not so steep, but run into Cameron R. A large lake between the S and Middle Peaks at the foot of the mountain. A smaller lake, ½ covered in ice & snow between Middle and N Peaks but not so low in the valley. Got back to the cabin at about 6 PM leaving it at about 7 AM. Saw the Sun rise and the moon set at nearly the same time.
Sept. 18. Thursday left for Alberni. Left the Cabin at 7 AM & got to Cameron Lake by10 AM. Walked to within 5 mile of Alberni. Got a lift, roadmen going home. Summit 1300 odd ft high. The Cowichan trail is close to the summit. Mr. Godsal stayed with the Lees. I went on to [?]. Mr. Godsal spent his 66 birthday on the top of Mt Arrowsmith.
Alpinists Elect Officers for Year
Col. W.W. Foster Is Honorary Chairman Of Local Section, Mr. R.D. McCaw, Chairman – Plan Meetings.
Reported in the Daily Colonist Wednesday December 4, 1919, p.13.
The election of officers for the ensuing year was held in connection with the meeting of the Victoria Section of the Alpine Club of Canada on Tuesday [December 2] evening at the home of retiring secretary, Miss Jennie McCulloch, Linden Avenue. The following was the result: Hon. Chairman William W. Foster; Chairman, Mr. Robert D. McCaw; Secretary, Mr. Gordon Cameron. The executive is to be composed of Mr. W. [William] A. Alldritt, Mr. W. [William] S. Drewry, Major Francis A. Robertson, Miss [Margaret] Cowell, Miss McCulloch and Capt. [William] Everall. Mr. Reynolds will represent that Vancouver Island section of the club on the Photographic Committee, whose duties lie in the direction of collecting photographs of interest to the society. Mr. Arthur O. Wheeler, director of the Alpine Club of Canada, was present at the meeting, and stated that the organization hereafter would publish a quarterly review, to which the secretary of the local section would be asked to send reports four times yearly, the said reports to be a resume of the activities of the Vancouver Island society. The local section has already made tentative plans for the January, February and March meeting, at each of which two members will read papers. It is the intention also to invite several people to address public meetings to be arranged under the auspices of the society information having already been received of a number of famous Alpinists, a noted natural history student, and a lady botanist who are expected on the Coast within the next few months. If they can be prevailed upon to lecture here the meetings will be arranged. The membership of the society here numbers about thirty.
1920
The Next Decade: 1920 – 1929.